Friday, January 23, 2009

Skinny black jeans

A couple of weeks ago I was prepared to toss this project in the bin, but after two dismal, and frankly demoralizing, visits to my favorite jeans store, I decided to give the jeans another try. This is my first attempt ever making a pair of skinny jeans and I had to draft the pattern pretty much from scratch.
All in all I'm pretty pleased, and the fit is way better than the stuff I can currently find in stores. And despite them being tight, the jeans are still comfortable which I credit to the fact that the pattern is custom made for my body.


Side view. There is some small folds of excess fabric going on at the back of the thighs. Ideally I would like to get rid of them, and I'd love to hear suggestions on how to do it.


Kitchen towel punk. The dotted Amy Butler fabric didn't work with the overall look. Instead I went out to find some black and white checker board fabric, but couldn't find any, so I bought this red/white gingham fabric that is normally used for things like kitchen towels and cloths.

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How to achieve razor sharp patch pockets:
Getting the corners on jeans patch pockets looking even and crisp can be quite difficult, but with the help of paper templates the process becomes really simple and quick.

Step 1. A paper template is basically the pattern piece with the seam allowance trimmed off. The template should be made out of thick paper, like the cardboard you can find on the back of notepads. Place the template on top of the pocket piece and on an iron board.

Step 2. Press in the seam allowances using the template as a guide. Loads of steam and pressure is recommended to make the press stay.

Step 3. The opening should then be folded twice and top stitched.

Step 4. Top stitch the upper fold with thick thread in the upper spool and regular thread in the bobbin. A special top stitch needle is highly recommended.

Step 5. For good measure press again. As you hopefully can see this pocket looks really crisp and because of this there is no need to baste before attaching the pocket. Just a couple of pins is all you need. This works for pockets in knits as well, but then I use some spray starch to secure the shape.

The end result. I made the inner side of the pocket a little slanted to give it a more interesting shape. The cross stitch tack is used as a substitute for rivets.

A little note: Sorry if some of the pictures are a little dark and blurry. The days are so dark and grim right now in Sweden that it's virtually impossible to get decent photos using natural light. A good flash and some simple studio lamps and reflectors are on my current to do/wish-list.

7 comments:

  1. I like your jeans!

    You asked for suggestions on the minor wrinkles on the back - and the answer is that they are inherent in the style. The only way to eliminate them - at least for normally shaped women, not model-skinny people - is to go for a different style.

    Of course, now someone more knowledgeable than I will come along and tell you how to do it! I'll check back in case I am proven wrong!

    And I am sorry your weather is so gray and cold... but on the positive side, spring is coming.

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  2. Wow. I adore that topstiching and details in the red thread!

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  3. Great looking jeans and the red topstitching is fabulous.

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  4. Adorable! You whipped these up pretty quick. I am impressed. Like the Converse shoes with them!

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  5. Using the paper template is BRILLIANT!!!

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  6. Thank you all for the kind comments, and Luckylibbet I'll go for your explanation, and it means less work for me :) I do have one pair of stretch jeans with no folds in the back, but they are cut super tight, like leggings and I guess the stretch of the fabric makes this possible.

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  7. Too cool! I totally dig the red stitching.

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